Vincenzo Abruzzese, Valdicava’s prodigious winemaker, continues to impress the wine press with his stunning 2001 Brunello. Released January 2006 and expected to be available this spring, it garnered 98 points - Classic, on the Wine Spectator scale and first place among all the producers sampled."It's all down to balance," said Vincenzo Abbruzzese, the owner and winemaker of Valdicava, who made the best 2001 Brunello I have tasted so far during my blind tastings in Tuscany. I scored it 98 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, or classic. There's a fabulous intensity of fruit that begins with the aromas and finishes minutes later on the finish of the palate. "The 2001 is a new definition for Brunello. The 2001 is better than 1999. It has more balance. The 1999 may have more tannins, but the 2001 has more fruit and structure and everything else."
James Suckling Jan 30,2006
Just what hard work and integrity can do are already evident in the 2002 Rosso di Montalcino, once again one of the best in the appellation and far superior to the level of the vintage itself in its ripeness, elegance, length,and freshness." Robert Parker
"Valdicava’s 2001 Rosso di Montalcino, as always, is exemplary. A deep, dark garnet, its lovely plum, leather, herb and mineral nose is admirably pure and focused, and the smooth and powerful flavors are more those of a Brunello than a Rosso di Montalcino. Long, intense, and vibrant, this is notable juice, and will last until 2008. Those looking for the finest in this appellation might want to consider reserving the 1999 Valdicava Brunello – the best yet – in advance." RobertParker
Vincenzo Abruzzese, Montalcino’s number one over-achiever, has produced winner after winner... year after year. How does he do it? He is willing to do or spend whatever it takes to realize his goal... the highest quality possible. Abruzzese pares his yields to the bone in order to get the concentrated extractions that make award winning wines. Valdicava retains two of Italy’s best wine consultants, winemaker Attilio Pagli and agronomist Andrea Paoletti. Nothing but the best will do for Valdicava. Apparently the efforts are worth it.
The history of the Valdicava estate goes back 1953 when Vincenzo's grandfather, Bramante Abruzzese, acquired 10 hectares of gently sloping land in the middle of the valley for which the estate was named, Valdicava. It is situated on a high plain lying to the north in the coolest part of Montalcino. Bramante planted the first brunello vines and initialy sold the fruit to Clemente Santini at the Biondi Santini estate. With the help of the Santini family Brumante organized a group of 19 growers to form a "consorzio" or co-op to produce brunello on their own. He built a winery on the estate and bottled wine under the consorzio label. From the roots of his small co-op Brumante officially founded the modern Consorzio di Brunello in 1967. It has grown to over 200 members today and every Brunello producer is a member. The consorzio became more of an association of independents rather than a co-op and Brumante began to bottle Valdicava wine under his own label in 1977. Vincenzo’s father was not interested in a career in viticulture so He moved to Siena where Vincenzo was born and raised. Vincenzo worked in the vineyards and the winery throughout his youth but it was not his first career choice. He entered the University at Florence intending to go into engineering. With graduation soon approaching, Bramonte announced that he would retire from winemaking and sell Valdicava. It was a difficult decision for Vincenzo but he had an epiphany and took over at the winery in 1987. The property desperately needed improvement. Although Vincenzo had little capital, he worked hard and began a series of changes that have shaped Valdicava into one of Montalcino’s elite.
In the past, Brunellos were always aged in large 50 hectoliter Slovenian oak casks called botti. Traditional methods produced tremendously ageworthy wines requiring years in the cellar before they were ready to drink. Valdicava's wines were made this way until modern methods ushered in a new age for brunello in the 90's. During this period Valdicava began producing more balanced wines that, retained the ability to age, yet could be enjoyed much younger as well. Brunello producers today are roughly divided between two camps, Traditionalist and progressives. Forward thinking producers have moved toward producing more approachable wines. The most progressive wineries are using smaller 225-liter French oak barriques over the traditional botti. Some are hedging their bets with a judicious combination of large vats and smaller barriques. Abbruzzese is considered part of the new Brunello Avant-garde. By borrowing from both disciplines, however, he aims to maintain the structure and aromas of traditional Brunello, and the elegance and harmony associated with newer methods. Valdicava's third transformation occurred in the vineyard. Better viticulture produced more concentrated, richer fruit, which gives the wine even greater potential. Valdicava’s small size allows Abruzzese great flexibility and it is a key ingredient to his success. He attributes the power of his wines to his ability to achieve "balance" in the vineyard and the cellar. In a good year, Valdicava produces about 5000 cases of wine. Abruzzese divides his production between three wines:
Except for the riserva, Valdicava's wines are blended from various vineyards and plots to achieve the desired characteristics. This is generally the case with most all Brunellos. All the grapes for the riserva, however, are sourced from a single vineyard. The wine and the vineyard are named after the Madonna del Piano church located on the property. The Madonna del Piano Riserva was the first single vineyard Cru Brunello ever produced. In fact, until 1994 single vineyard labeling was prohibited by DOCG Brunello standards. Only mature (35 - 40 year old) vines are used to make the riserva. Since Sangiovese vines must be replaced about every 40 years new vines are planted in plots that will eventually replace the old ones that will get torn out. Younger plots in the rotation are used in the other wines until they are mature enough for the riserva. All Valdicava grapes are organically grown. The brunello and Rosso are blended from nine vinifications from separate plots on the estate. Based on the quality of the harvest Abruzzese decides how much of the Rosso, Brunello and Brunello Riserva he will make before he bottles. He generally chooses three of the nine vinifications for the Rosso and six for the Brunello. This can vary from year to year. In 2001 the early frost resulted in reduced yields creating an exceptional vintage. Because of the extraordinary quality of the vintage, more of the wine was allocated to brunello (2,500 cases). The 2002 vintage was weak in most of Italy. Rather than jeopardize his reputation, Abruzzese declassified his best grapes into the Rosso. Valdicava will not produce any 2002 Brunello. Having received the best of the production, however, the 2002 Rosso di Montalcino is superb.
Valdicava's Brunellos offer a rare opportunity for the fine wine collector. Until recently relatively unknown, Abruzzese is not likely to remain undiscovered much longer. All the ingredients characteristic of highly collectable wines are there: A willingness to sacrifice quantity for consistently high quality year after year, high scoring wines, A very long aging potential, attention from the wine press and a very limited supply (only about 600 cases of 2001 Brunello will be imported to the US). It will be hard to find and difficult to get as much of the allocation will be spoken for. Above all, There is a certain uniqueness and cachet about Abuzzese's wines. No other winemaker's hand is so evident in the personality of the wine. Vincenzo is more like an artist than a winemaker. His wines are his canvas and his signature is on every bottle he produces; not scripted on the label, but in the wines ability to reflect the essence of his vineyard and the Balance he achieves in the cellar.
Note: Consumers should be aware there are some internet bait and switch schemes offering the 2001 Valdicava Brunello at very low prices, even though it is not yet available in the U.S. Legitimate retailers have realistic prices and anticipate delivery to be some time in late spring to early summer.
